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ericlp
Punatic

China
1398 Posts

Posted - 08/31/2011 :  20:04:16  Show Profile  Visit ericlp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
So...

Going to building a home in Hawaiian Beaches. I've read threw the forum (search) some people just say plop down PP blocks you can buy @ HD or Lowes..... With the metal strapping for 4x4 post... Others say you should take a jack hammer go down a few inches and level it out with crushed rock... What gives? How do you REALLY set P&P for today's building that is CODE where the inspector is not going to GIG you on it.

Is it just good to have the D9 rip the house pad really good so you can tap down the ripped up lava -- level it off the best you can where the Pier will be placed and call it day???? OR will the next earthquake rattle your blocks 5' off the pad?

HELP! I think the main thing is ... HAS to be just passing for UP TO CODE if anyone has any insight on this I'd love to hear it. I would think that if a D9 has just ripped and leveled a house pad then how is one going to jack hammer out loose lava? I've also heard that if you spread gravel or cinder you can't have that under the pier... It's kinda disturbing to me that there is NO REAL answer to this problem. But I hope to get some insight.

Next Question:

Can I just use the standard run of the mill (whatever they got) at Home Depot or Lowes? Is it 6x6 block or 8x8 I really don't know ... is there code for the size of pier that it needs to be? Or just buy the stuff that has the 4x4 strapping I think they also sell the ones that have solid U frame that you could bolt into. Or do I actually need to pour my own blocks onto the lava?

Thanks for all your help as I hope to get some solid answers on this.



Thank You!

hotinhawaii
Da Kine

USA
369 Posts

Posted - 09/01/2011 :  07:17:16  Show Profile  Visit hotinhawaii's Homepage  Reply with Quote
There are very clear answers to all of your concerns. I am not sure why you think there are not.

The first thing is that you must have an architect-stamped plan to submit to the county for a permit. This plan will specify what type of foundation is needed to satisfy code requirements. For example, you can place double-strapped pier blocks directly over compacted base course (but not cinder as it is too unstable and will crush easily under weight). Or you can set them down below grade if the plan specifies that. Either way is acceptable as long as the plan specifies it.

As far as the size goes, it depends on what you are building and how heavy it is and how many pier blocks you are using. Again, an approved plan will specify this. Generally, you can use preformed pier blocks. But there are some instances where a particular post will be bearing so much weight that a larger form will need to be poured.

The questions you are asking are very specific and without seeing the building plan, no one can answer them definitively.
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ericlp
Punatic

China
1398 Posts

Posted - 09/01/2011 :  13:19:14  Show Profile  Visit ericlp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks for you answers... It just seems like so many different ways to get the job done. I guess as long as it passes threw the building department.

Have you seen my jack hammer? :)
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Kapohocat
Punatic

USA
4696 Posts

Posted - 09/03/2011 :  08:49:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You can start here: http://www.co.hawaii.hi.us/permits/info_const.html

Currently, the rules are based on the 1991 UBC. You can look up the specific sections the above link references for foundations.
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Royall
Punatic

USA
1586 Posts

Posted - 09/03/2011 :  09:16:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Probably out of date information now, but when I built my home in 2006, There was a size for the piers on the plans. The piers called for came with the "Trojan" house package. When we set the piers, we could have used base course only to level them but opted to set them on concrete to keep them from getting moved around during putting up the post and beams. When the inspector came by (it was Mark at the time) he said that the concrete was a nice touch but not necessary.

With that said, many people told me that I would never get the 2x4 and plywood corner shear walls passed, that they HAD to be concrete blocks or poured cement on footings to pass. I built them out of 2x4's on piers per the stamped plans and it passed. People at that time couldn't believe it. I was just happy to keep going without any "back ups"!! Just goes to show, there are many ways to do things, it just depends what architect stamps the plans. Mine was the "Stamping whore" and that is all I'll say on that.

One other note. The inspector took to long to come and inspect the foundation for the garage and the man doing the slab said he couldn't cancel the mud as rescheduling would have put the slab out another 3 weeks. I took about 50 photos of every angle and wire tie on the re-bar. When the inspector came out, he got a bit nasty at first, but when I told him when I called for the inspection AND who I spoke to, he just said to get the architect to sign off on it. Just gave a CD with the photos and everything went smoothly.

Royall

Hale O Na Mea Pa`ani

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Blend
Newbie

USA
27 Posts

Posted - 09/15/2011 :  18:32:30  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Kapohocat

You can start here: http://www.co.hawaii.hi.us/permits/info_const.html

Currently, the rules are based on the 1991 UBC. You can look up the specific sections the above link references for foundations.



Sure donít mean to derail, this is an older thread, however I canít help but smile when hearing 1991 UBC is still current! Here in CA we were working 97 UBC maybe 10yrs ago. That was a few after 94 which was a few after 91. To think weíve now gone to CA 07 (IBC 06) and onto CA 10 (IBC09).

Iím thinking 1991 UBC should help keep the construction costs down. You could always upgrade where you see fit.

Mahalo


Closer To Free
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ericlp
Punatic

China
1398 Posts

Posted - 09/15/2011 :  22:17:44  Show Profile  Visit ericlp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
thanks, as expected it's really up to the engineer that does the stamping. I guess I'll be pouring my shear wall corners. At that point since if your pour one block you might as well pour them all since if your going to get concrete delivered might as well get a your money's worth.

I guess another topic would be Single wall... Man, I've heard so many different takes on it... But mostly it's probably not worth it to build single wall where you have studs exposed with T-1/11 siding on the outside of the wall. I think this is no longer permittable.

Edited by - ericlp on 09/15/2011 22:25:07
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OpenD
Da Kine

USA
281 Posts

Posted - 10/07/2011 :  10:33:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
From today's newspaper, about how the County Council now has a knot in their tail because they've been told they cannot amend the 2006 IBC to make it less strict (ie., less expensive)to comply with.

"The vote to repeal the old building code passed 5-4 in August, with Yagong joining Hilo Councilmen Donald Ikeda, Dennis Onishi and J Yoshimoto in opposition. The old code was based on the 1991 Uniform Building Code and had not been amended since 2005.

That vote was reconsidered, bringing the council to the new amendments.

The changes were mandated by a 2007 state law that requires counties to update their construction codes every three years. The building standards -- an amended form of the 2006 International Building Code -- add a three-year time limit for permits among its many changes."

Full story at http://www.hawaiitribune-herald.com/sections/news/local-news/building-code-changes-tabled.html
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Kapohocat
Punatic

USA
4696 Posts

Posted - 10/07/2011 :  17:03:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm about ready to go back to the event planning biz.

Bridezillas, by comparison, dont seem like as much trouble as the Bldg Dept.

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